Peru and Chile have a contentious relationship. A friend who spent some time in Peru warned me before I went that being from Chile…or having lived in Chile…or having visited Chile…could get me ostracized in Peru. What could inspire this kind of animosity, you ask? Well, several things. But one of the things that really gets Peruvians riled up is Chile’s habit of “borrowing” some of Peru’s tastiest dishes and trying to pass them off as their own.
The Pisco Sour, for example, is practically the national drink of Chile, even with all its wine (most of which is exported). The drink is made from Pisco, a liquor made from the muscat grape and lime juice. In Chile, we saw them everywhere, even at wineries! Chile has tried to lay claim to the drink on the international scene…but the liquor, and the cocktail itself, are both of Peruvian origin.
Then there’s ceviche. Ceviche is essentially the technique of marinading raw or barely cooked seafood in lime juice, adding goodies like garlic, red onion, hot pepper, and cilantro. There are endless variations but they’re pretty much all an amazing explosion of color and flavor. And while it may be true that no one “owns” the technique itself, asking a Chilean and a Peruvian about the origins and ultimate technique for preparing the dish is bound to ignite a conflict.
After a week in Chile, eating ceviche numerous times in both the Peruvian and Chilean styles, we can’t say which is better—we’ll have to take another field research trip before we decide. But we can say we understand a little better why the two nations would have some conflict over claims to food: if we invented such a tasty dish and someone else tried to take the credit, we’d be mad too.
See for yourself with this version, based on an “authentic” Peruvian version… but if you take credit, like Chile does, Peru never has to know.
CEVICHE RECIPE:
STEP 1
Marinade seafood of choice (try white fish fillet, like tilapia; shrimp; octopus) in about 1 and a half cups lime juice. Key limes best approximate the flavor of the version used in South America, but you can use lemon in a pinch. Cover and refrigerate for at least two hours.
STEP 2
Drain the juice and add:
• A seeded & chopped aji pepper (yellow); if you can’t find aji, try habanero or rocoto (spicy peppers!)
• 2 large red onions sliced into thin, long strips
• 2 chopped cloves of garlic
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
• Salt and pepper to taste
• About 1 more cup lime juice
STEP 3
Serve over a bed of lettuce with sides like yams, potatoes, or corn. For a wine pairing, try Airfield Estates Thunderbolt (a dry, crisp, refreshing blend of Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon).
February is, we’re told, time for love.Time for romantic, expensive dinners, for doting gifts, for all the pressure that comes with trying to show someone how much you adore them by how much you can plan or spend.What if, instead of the fancy, fussy, forced Valentines Day displays of adoration, we stepped back and had a relaxing, low-key evening actually celebrating and enjoying the people we love?Not because there’s a recession, and we begrudgingly forego the jewelry and champagne toasts, but because there’s something really lovely and deeply satisfying about staying in, cuddling up, feasting on hearty, homey food with a rich glass of wine?
Sounds pretty good to me.If you want your fancy V-day reservations out on the town, you’re certainly welcome to them.But when it comes time to wind down and focus more on the people in your lives than the fanfare, this simple meal hits the spot.
When I first tried the Airfield Zinfandel, all I could think was “smoked eggplant.”The wine has multiple layers, a deeper note that longs to be paired with the earthiness of eggplant or a wintry green like kale, but also a brighter acidity begging to accompany tomatoes.But the smokiness?Where was I going to find the right flavor to complement that?
Mozzarella, turns out.Smoked mozzarella has a beautiful aroma, of hearth and home, just like the meal.It is a bit browned on the outside and has the creaminess of fresh mozzarella but a nuttiness I associate with, say, browned butter or roasted brussel sprouts.Leftovers are joyous on toast in the morning.
The rest of the recipe is a feast of colors and textures, giving the lie to the notion that winter food is bland and bitter.Start with a cheery yellow corn cake, beautiful by the stack.Cover with sauteed fresh kale, dotted with bacon.Finish with a spicy tomato sauce bedecked in smoked mozzarella.Settle in by the fire (or the space heater) with a bottle of Airfield Zin and a loved one or dear friend for an evening of endearing conversation and affection—proving the best things in life are, after all, (just about) free.
CORN CAKES WITH SAUTEED KALE & SPICY TOMATO SAUCE
Corn Cakes:
1 cup flour
¾ cup coarse cornmeal
¼ cup sugar
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
¾ cup plain yogurt + ¼ cup water, mixed
3 Tbs melted butter
3 ½ Tsp baking powder
½ Tsp baking soda
½ Tsp salt
2 eggs
Separate eggs, adding yolks to watered down yogurt, sugar and butter.Whip whites until they form soft peaks.Mix dry ingredients, stirring in the wet and folding in egg whites.Depending on the consistency of the yogurt, you may need to add a bit more liquid to get a good consistency for pancakes, though the finished batter should be fairly thick.I used a very thick yogurt then added 1 Tbsp each cream and water to thin it down.
Make corn cakes as you would any other pancakes, although corn cakes should be a bit thicker.A diameter of roughly 4 inches makes for a good single serving.
Makes approximately 6 cakes.Leftover cakes are wonderful with maple syrup or berries for breakfast; batter keeps 4-6 days.
Sauteed Kale
6 cloves garlic, minced
Enough olive oil to fill bottom of pan in thin layer, approximately 6 Tbsp
1 large bunch kale, washed
4 Tbsp diced bacon (hint: cutting frozen bacon width-wise creates conveniently sized pieces and avoids having to separate pieces of bacon)
4 Tbsp pine nuts, toasted
1 red onion, diced
Fold each piece of kale in half, cutting fibrous center stem out with kitchen scissors.Chop leaves into bite-sized pieces.
Saute garlic in olive oil, taking care not to burn.Reserve approximately ½ the oil & ½ the garlic.Add red onion and cook over medium-low heat until onion is softened and gooey, 5-10 minutes.While onion is cooking, toast pine nuts (hint: set timer for 1 minute, shake, set timer for another minute; when nuts turn color, immediately pour into separate bowl or they’ll keep cooking in the pan, even with the heat off).
Add bacon to pan with onions, allowing to just crisp before adding kale, stirring slightly.Cover for 2-3 minutes to allow kale to absorb liquid and soften, then stir gently.Give it a bit more time if they’re still rough or crisp.Leaves should be bright green and just tender, but not mushy.Sprinkle pine nuts on kale.
Tomato Sauce
You may use your favorite pre-made tomato sauce if you want an easy substitute.Alternately, you can search for the ingredients that made my sauce truly special—or come up with a variety of your own based on what’s local and tasty in your area.I started with a big can of diced tomatoes, roughly 2 cups worth.Canned tomatoes are usually made from tomatoes picked at the height of freshness and it isn’t hard to get cans whose only ingredient is—tomatoes.Considering they’re cheap and keep forever, canned tomatoes are about the perfect food.
To this I added about 1/3 cup of a Middle Eastern pepper sauce, available by the jar—spicy with a hint of vinegar, the paste is packed with red peppers, tomatoes, eggplant and chilies.I also added 1/3 cup fried eggplant, also available by the jar.I further added the remaining garlic and oil, leftover from the kale, salt, pepper, and about 2 teaspoons of an Italian seasoning blend (marjoram, thyme, oregano, basil).
Use tongs to top corn cakes with tong-ful of kale.Cover with a ladle full of tomato and dot with pieces of smoked mozzarella.Microwave briefly to assist with the melting (or put briefly under a broiler).
• 8 Flat Iron Steaks
• Teriyaki Sauce
• 1 cup Ground Espresso Beans
• Salt
• Pepper
Pre-heat the barbecue. Rub steaks with espresso beans, salt, and pepper. Grill steak to desired temperature. Brush steak with teriyaki sauce on both sides, grill 1 minute on each side. Let rest 4-5 minutes before serving.
Pre-heat barbecue to high. Spray the tuna steaks with cooking spray and season w/ salt and pepper. Grill for 3 minutes on both sides & pull from grill, should be cooked medium to medium rare. Cut tuna in slices and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve with wasabi and soy sauce for dipping.
Pairs well with Airfield Estates Unoaked Chardonnay.
Learn to make delicious Grilled Pineapple Mojitos! They can serve as a delicious appetizer or refreshing dessert. This was the first course at Airfield Estates 2009 Grilled Food & Wine Seminar.
GRILLED PINEAPPLE MOJITOS
(Serves 8 people)
• 1 Fresh Pineapple (cut in long wedges)
• 1/4 cup Sugar
• 1 Lime (Zest)
• 8 Mint Leaves (cut in small pieces)
• ½ cup Pinot Gris
Pre-heat barbecue and mix the sugar, lime zest, and mint in a small plate or bowl for dipping. Lay the pineapple flat side down, grill for 5-6 minutes on one side. Pull pineapple off grill and cut in to pieces. Dip the pineapple in the Pinot Gris, then dip in sugar mixture. Great for a nice hot day.
The recipe is complements of Chef Roger Hazzard from Bon Vino’s Bistro in Sunnyside, WA.
