The 2010 grape harvest will be remembered for many years to come. The long winter and cool growing season resulted in a slow to mature crop and higher than normal acid levels. In addition, the untimely late summer rains resulted in extremely high levels of botrytis (a wine grape fungus) in specific vineyard blocks.
The net result, from the vineyard perspective, was that many of the blocks required additional crop thinning to drop the late season rot, hand-picking rather than mechanical harvesting where rot was most severe, and in some cases loss of the entire vineyard block. All of these factors significantly impacted the profitability of our farm.
On a brighter note… with these challenges came opportunities. Generally, the Yakima Valley is thought of to be too warm of a site for Pinot Noir. But with the coolest growing season in my memory, we are taking advantage of this opportunity to produce a world class Pinot Noir.
Additionally, the botrytis will give us opportunities in wine making that are not available in normal growing seasons. In general, there are two types of botrytis infections that can occur on wine grapes:
• Grey Rot – undesirable botrytis that results during consistently wet conditions.
• Noble Rot – desirable botrytis that occurs when drier conditions follow wetter.
Fortunately, we experienced the latter conditions with one of our Riesling blocks. Noble Rot dehydrates and shrivels the grapes, thus concentrating the sugars and producing a distinctively sweet dessert wine. In past vintages, we have always made our Late Harvest Wines in the style of an Ice Wine (where the grapes are frozen in order to concentrate the sugars). However, this year we are making our very first Late Harvest Riesling in the Botrytis Style (similar to the Sauternes of France).
Although the farm was affected in a negative fashion this fall, one of the more note worthy items is that the vineyard blocks that were designated to Airfield were clean and of high quality. And we are pleased to announce that the 2010 wines that we’ve been sampling in the cellar have great balance and flavor.
I would like to thank each one of you for your support and loyalty. I have found that this has been the most rewarding period of my life and despite the economic challenges and now the natural challenges of 2010, I would not trade these days for any others.
OCT. 9, 2010 – Jim Loosemore, Airfield's Woodinville Tasting Room Manager, shows an example of botrytis. (Photo taken by Jason Fukura of f/8.3 photography)
As harvest approaches, we need to accomplish a myriad of jobs in the vineyard to ensure quality, deal with impending problems, and achieve crop requirements. Below are a few examples of our current vineyard tasks:
Bird Control
Now that August has arrived, we are finally reaching the end of our powdery mildew preventative program. When véraison occurs, (the period when berries begin to color and soften), the clusters are no longer susceptible to infestation. With the building of sugars within the grape, comes bird pressure. We do several things to lesson that pressure:
1. We distribute a metallic tape, known as flash tape, throughout the vineyard. The breeze and the bright sun light, create a light show in the vineyard that is disturbing to birds.
2. Secondly we deploy Avalarms throughout the blocks that we traditionally have trouble in. These devices are solar or battery powered and give off amplified distress calls of the birds that habitually feed on the grapes.
3. We also deploy propane powered cannons in areas of highest pressure. These devices are mounted on a rotating platform and are propelled by the concussion of the device and fire bursts of up to three shots per set.
4. We also have some metallic magnetic birds, that we suspend above the canopy. The theory behind this measure is that the magnetic field given off by the birds promotes an uncomfortable feeling in the feeding animals causing them to move on to different venues.
5. One of the final measures to prevent hungry birds from pecking grapes is the use of netting. Bird netting is our maximum deterrent, and it is not deployed until we have observed a substantial amount of bird pecking. Over the years, we have discovered that certain locations and varietals are more susceptible to pecking, such as Zinfandel and Tempranillo. The Zinfandel block is located near cherry orchards and tends to attract lots of Magpies. Tempranillo is a thin-skinned, early ripening grape, and it attracts Robins, Magpies, and Starlings.
All of these measures should be in place before bird feeding begins near the end of August. Protecting the fruit from birds is critical for wine quality. Bird-pecked grapes and berries can harbor bacterial and fungal pathogens that alter the flavor of wine or juice.
Extenday®
Many of you are aware of our use of Extenday, a material that we use to amplify the intensity of sun light in the vineyard. It is a white tarp that is deployed on the floor of the vineyard, running between the rows of vines. This material is stored in the vineyard and is deployed at véraison. At the conclusion of harvest we role it up and attach it to the drip wire. The timing on the deployment is critical and needs to happen when véraison is occurring.
Crop Estimates
Another job that we take on at this time of year is crop estimates. When we start the season we have certain crop loads in mind for each variety. As the season unfolds, we may need to adjust the crop to a lower level of production. Because we fear over thinning, we usually approach the need incrementally. In the springtime, we use a process called Shoot Positioning to reduce the crop and better position the location of the fruit. Those targets may not have been attained. So now we go to the vineyard, count and weigh clusters, and really try to hone in to actual yields. Further crop reductions usually occur after véraison with the removal of whole clusters or portions of the cluster that may not ripen as early. Uniformity is always the key to the best wines. Crop reduction is a real science, and to elaborate beyond this point might be overkill.
Harvester Maintenance
One of our winter jobs is to go through all our harvest equipment and make repairs on wear items, so that during harvest the process goes as smoothly as possible. When spring arrives, some of that work might have gotten shoved to the back burner. So now is the time when we need to finish the process, as harvest is just around the corner.
I am sure I omitted a number of annual requirements, however we will discuss them later. Until then… cheers!
CELLAR TASKS
Harvest is anticipated to commence in mid to late September (a few weeks behind the average starting date). Nevertheless, there is plenty of prep work to do in the cellar. Below is a glimpse at our Winemaker’s Pre-Harvest Check List:
Today was the first day of reds for harvest 2009 here at Airfield Estates. With Dolcetto and Tempranillo paving the way. These two varietals are demonstrating amazing flavors and we have high high hopes for the wines that they will produce. Listen below as Marcus provides a recap of the day and stay tuned for more fruit hitting the crush pad!
With seasonal festivities rolling right along, Airfield Estates joins the hussle and bussle as the final crop has made it’s way into the cellar, and barreled and tanked wines continue to ferment beautifully. Listen below as winemaker Marcus Miller discusses the Rielsing crop which will produce this year’s late harvest, and learn from the rising Sommelier Mike Miller as he provides a lesson or two on nose and pallet nuances right from the barrel.
Harvest 2008 culminates with a mad dash to the finish here at Airfield Estates Winery, with the final clusters of grapes finding their way to the crush pad today, and well into the night, (with the exception of the late harvest…if there is any to be had this year!) Five red varieties were harvested today making the trek from the vines to the cellar. These varieties included: Cinsault, Counoise, Syrah, Mouvedre, and Barbera.
Cinsault is a Rhone style variety wine grape. Left to itself, Cinsault has a tendency to produce high yields, yet lack flavor. However, if the yields are properly managed to lower levels, the wine can have a strong perfumed aroma with flavors of strawberry and vanilla. It is used to brighten the fruit flavors of a blend and also tone down harsh tannins. Airfield Cinsault was planted in 2006. The vines were planted in cobbles and rocky soil, with a 5% slope and a Westerly orientation.
Counoise is also a Rhone variety, though it may have originated in Spain. It provides flavors of licorice and spice providing good tannins and a full palate. The variety is similar to Grenache without the floral notes. Airfield’s block is planted in a SW orientation on a 4 to 5% slope.
Syrah another Rhone varietal, generally exemplifies deep color with flavors of black currant and blackberry and subtle hints of black pepper and licorice. Syrah will form the backbone of our Rhone blend. Most of Airfield’s Syrah is located on the J Block, which is one of our warmer, most frost-free sites. The earliest plantings date back to 1997 and more recent plantings occurred in 2002 and 2008. Airfield Syrah is wonderfully balanced fruit.
Mouvedre is a thick-skinned red grape with flavors of cherry, blackberry, and violet. In Spain it is referred to as Monastrell, and in California and Australia it sometimes goes by Mataro. Having originated in Spain, this Rhone variety craves the heat, however, it is somewhat sensitive to drought. In the South of France and in Australia, it is often blended with Grenache and Syrah. Airfield Estates Mouvedre was planted in 2006, in shallow, rocky soil, with a SW orientation, and on a 5 to 6% slope.
Barbera is an Italian red grape found primarily in the Piedmont region. It is Italy’s second most widely planted red variety, after Sangiovese. It produces full-bodied, crisp wines that are high in acid and low in tannin levels. Barbera exhibits an attractive aroma of red fruit, currants, and blackberries and is enhanced by oak aging with notes of vanilla and toast. Airfield Estates Barbera was recently planted in 2006. The vines have a SW orientation. We plan to blend our Barbera with other Italian varieties.
Listen below as Marcus gives his final send off blog to this year’s harvest.
As you saw from the large assortment of barrels in the video, Marcus and his crew still have their work cut out for them. After ordering an additional 172 barrels, and realizing they are still 40 sort, there is still much work to be done in the cellar. The exciting news is based upon the fruit that has come in, and the fermentation that has begun, it looks to be a stellar year. Get ready for some great tasting wines to come from this year’s vintage and hit Airfield Estates’ bottles in the months ahead. Thanks for joining us!
The festivities are brewing here at Airfield Estates, with dogs dressed as ladybugs, two Mike Millers prancing about, and our winemaker’s clothes on backwards.
Lots of action is happening in the cellar as Harvest continues on. About 15.5 tons of Cabernet were brought in this morning. The Cabernet has spent it’s day travelling from the crusher to the destemmer. After it’s travels are over, the Cabernet will find itself in fermentation tanks. These tanks have recently been emptied due to Merlot being transported to barrel yesterday, and Syrah finding it’s way to the plastic poly containers this afternoon.
With a jam packed evening ahead of them, the cellar guys will not be free to go out and about gathering treats this Halloween evening. Watch below to see clips from the day at the winery and get some quality advice from winemaker Marcus.
Harvest is in full swing here at Airfield Estates. With the first rush of grapes through the cellar doors, the crew is gearing up for peak #2. With most of the whites in, Winemaker Marcus Miller and crew are counting on Mother Nature to care for the remaining fruit on the vines until it’s brought in. As Marcus discusses in the video, with only so much space in the cellar, harvest of the remaining grapes takes great strategy at this point in the game, to ensure quality and avoid loss. Listen below to updates from harvest 2008 and catch a glimpse of reality as Marcus talks about the life of a winemaker.
Thanks to all of you who participated in Airfield Estates 2nd Annual Grape Stomp festivities! This year we stomped a total of 5 tons of grapes- 4 tons of Syrah and 1 ton of Grenache. The day was beautiful as the sun shone bright through the crisp air. The festivities included delicious treats from Diane’s Market Kitchen, Apres Vin, Chukar Cherries, and musical accompaniment by seasoned musician Clarence Werdon. Winemaker Marcus Miller also led several Winemaker 101 sessions to aspiring novice vintners. Watch our video below to see clips from the days events.
Foot-Stomped 2008 Syrah will be available in April 2009. This year’s blend will consist of 80% Syrah, 20% Grenache. Early sales for the 2008 blend will be available soon through our online store.
After a long couple of weeks pulling many late nights, Airfield Estates is back and ready to share the latest harvest happenings. Despite this years harvest being a bit later than last, Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers expects a record yield. This forecast appears no different for Airfield Estates, as things have shifted into high gear.
With all of the whites in except Riesling and Marsanne, the focus has shifted to the reds. Merlot hit the cellar today, proving to be as consistent as ever. Merlot is a Bordeaux variety. It is one of the most heavily planted varieties in the state of WA. Airfield’s block, planted in 1996, consistently produces top quality fruit offering flavors of currant, blackberry, and plum, with notes of clove and peppercorn. Winemaker Marcus Miller believes this years crop may just be the best yet. Listen below as Marcus discusses today’s events
Though a late harvest can raise nerves as season’s changes become a greater risk factor, there is tremendous potential as well as the fruit obtains better acidity and bolder color. Stay tuned for more harvest news and updates as the early mornings and late nights continue on here at Airfield Estates.
Anticipating and preparing for Mother Nature led Winemaker Marcus Miller and Grape Grower Mike Miller to the decision of harvesting and crushing Roussanne and Semillon varieties at Airfield Estates on Oct. 2nd, 2008.
Roussanne is a Rhone style, late ripening variety which is often blended with Marsanne. The Roussanne variety can be temperamental at worst and outstanding at best. Great care and attention must be given to this variety both on the vine and during the Winemaking process. At its peak performance Roussanne adds aromatics, elegance and acidity with the potential to age and further develop in the bottle. This year Airfield Estates may blend the Roussanne harvest with Marsanne and Viognier.
Semillon is a thin-skinned grape often blended with Sauvignon Blanc. Both varieties originated in Bordeaux. Sauvignon acidity is often used to coax fuller flavors to life from the Semillon. Though often blended for added balance, this years Semillon juice is tasting so good it may just find itself bottled alone as a single varietal.
Listen below as Winemaker and Grape Grower elaborate on the day:
Stay tuned, we’ll keep you posted as the harvest continues to come off the vine. Next week may bring news of Pinot Gris, Merlot, and possibly Chardonnay.
