May 11th, 2010
For this newsletter, we decided to interview Airfield Estates owner and wine grape grower, Mike Miller, about harvesting wine grapes with a machine. We know this is a mysterious part of the wine process for a lot of wine drinkers out there and knew that Mike would be able to shed some light on the topic.
How does mechanical grape harvesting work?
In short… A grape harvester is a tall machine that straddles the trellis and uses special fingers (or rods) to shake the grapes off the vine.
For our technical readers….On our farm, we use Korvan Grape Harvesters. Our machines use a set of bow rods placed in close proximity to each other on each side of the fruiting zone. These rods freely float through the canopy as the harvester rolls through the field. The rods oscillate at a fairly high number of beats per minute. Meanwhile, the vines move back and forth in time to the picking rods, and the grape clusters (whose stems have become mature & somewhat brittle) drop toward the vineyard floor.
After the grapes have been shaken off the vine, the fruit lands on a catching tray, is collected by conveyor cups, and then transported to a cross conveyor that sits high at the rear of the machine. As the grapes drop onto the cross conveyor, two large fans pull out all of the light debris (such as leaves).
Then the grapes are transported to the discharge conveyor where they are screened by a third fan and by an inspector, who pulls out any foreign material (such as grape wood).
The fruit continues to move along the conveyor toward a trailer (catch bin) that travels in the row next to the harvester. Before the grapes enter the catch bin, the final screening is performed by a high power magnet, which removes any metal (wire or clips) that may have been caught by the picking rods.
Does it save on labor in the vineyard?
Our machine harvest crew is able to harvest as much as 200 tons in a shift. That crew is composed of 8 people. On the contrary, it typically takes 30 hand pickers to harvest 20 tons in a 10 hour shift. Machine harvesting not only allows us to save on labor costs, but also gives us the opportunity to harvest our fruit in a more timely fashion.
Does machine harvesting damage wine quality?
If grapes are not pressed in a timely manner after mechanical harvest, wine quality may be compromised. We insure that grapes are delivered within an hour of harvest. This is possible because of the close proximity of our vineyard to the winery. Furthermore, in order to mitigate the effects of the harvester, we harvest all of our fruit early in the morning. This means that the fruit is delivered in a chilled state, which helps insure that early fermentation will not be initiated.
What grapes are suitable for machine harvesting?
In general, mechanical harvesting works well for the thicker-skinned grapes (such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon). Thin-skinned grapes (such as Pinot Noir) are more delicate, and the berries pose a greater risk of rupturing and being susceptible to oxidation.
The physical characteristics of the vineyard (such as the type of trellis, space between rows, & the slope) also play a role in determining whether mechanical harvesting is feasible.
Weather is another factor. A formidable weather forecast might encourage mechanical harvesting to get the fruit off the vine in a more timely fashion. On the contrary, the early killing frost of the 2009 season caused us to hand-pick nearly every red varietal. We were concerned that machine harvesting would cause the dry, brittle leaves to become pulverized, be too difficult to remove from the grapes, and cause the wine to take on an undesirable vegetal character.
On our farm, we are fortunate that we have the ability to both machine harvest and hand-pick. This allows us to be more strategic about how we can process grapes in the most efficient and effective manner without compromising quality.
Do grape harvesters miss a lot of the fruit?
I truly believe that a hand crew leaves more fruit in the vineyard then the machine. This has not always been the case. The early harvesters were not as efficient at grape removal. We find that many home winemakers are extremely disappointed when given the opportunity to glean fruit because very little is left behind after the harvesters roll through the vineyard.
How do I get hired as a grape harvester driver? It sounds like fun.
Our entire machine harvest crew is comprised of full-time employees. When we get into the harvest season, everyone has his or her particular expertise. The main job requirements are: (1.) Be dependably early. We traditionally start at midnight. (2.) Good night vision. At least 60% of our grapes are picked before the sun rises. Trying to determine picked from unpicked rows can be difficult, & once the machine enters a row, it can not back up. Some of the rows can be up to ½ mile long. Pulling into the wrong row will result in a few expletives. (3.) Be able to deal w/ sleep deprivation. Universally, no one ever gets enough sleep during harvest. (4.) It is important that each member of our crew have a healthy appetite. Midnight snacks, donuts at break, big country breakfast mid-morning, & lunch breaks after the pick are a rule of order. I’ve always found that harvest can be good for at least 10 pounds.
Posted in Uncategorized
May 11th, 2010
Spring is here at Airfield Estates! While we are finishing up some bottling in the cellar, we are also beginning to look at the fall and what is around the corner. One of the things I am most proud of at Airfield is our Wine Club. We have the best wine club members in the state and it is an ever expanding group. One of the changes that is around the bend is more wines that are exclusive to club members. Here is a list of club wines I am planning on making and when you can expect them to be ready for bottle.
Viognier (aged in Acacia) – I love experimenting with barrels. So far I have used American, Hungarian, French, and Russian oak barrels. In 2010, I will try something completely new, barrels made from Acacia. The Acacia tree is suppose to be great for barrels. It is toasted very lightly and enhances the fruitiness of the wine. I have penciled in doing 75 cases of Viognier this year in Acacia to see how it works. Fall 2011
Pinot Noir – From everything I’ve been told, making good Pinot Noir is one of the greatest challenges in winemaking. It is a very fickle grape that can crumble if not treated with delicate respect in the cellar. This year we are going to make 75 cases of Pinot Noir from our estate vineyards. Usually this fruit goes into sparkling wine but this year we are going to crop down an acre of vines & see what happens. Fall 2011
Sangiovese – I have felt for the last two years that Sangiovese has the potential to be something special in our vineyards. Finally, I will get to show you. A 100% Sangiovese is just around the corner. 75 cases – Fall 2010
Barbera – This Italian wine has been a challenge to grow. The grape has incredibly high acidity & has been difficult to reign in. I have often said that if I could leave it in barrel for 4 years, it would be a fantastic wine. This year’s Barbara is more in balance. While it will probably be 18 months in barrel, I have high hopes for this wine. Spring 2011
Mourvèdre – With pepper & spice on the nose & a full mouth feel this Mourvèdre will be a very popular wine club wine. 75 cases – Fall 2010
Counoise – Have you ever tried a varietal wine made from Counoise in Washington State? I didn’t think so… If you have please let me know because I am under the impression that we will be releasing the first one. The Counoise is a big hit with the Airfield Estates team and it is a result of their pleading and groveling that I will be making this wine. 75 cases – Fall 2010
In addition, we will continue to make…
Malbec – Bottled May 13th, 2010. 210 cases.
Dolcetto – Bottled Fall 2010. 125 cases.
Zinfandel – Bottled Fall 2010. 75 cases.
- By Marcus Miller, Airfield Estates Winemaker
Tags: Wine Club, Wines
Posted in Barbera, Counoise, Dolcetto, Malbec, Sangiovese, Viognier, Wine Club Wines, ZInfandel
May 11th, 2010
Travels from Jeannie Rose Field & Amy Sonnichsen
  
With a final destination in mind of the wine country in Mendoza Argentina, Santiago Chile simply happened to be the stopping point in South America as flights from the US were more economical to Santiago than directly to Mendoza. Needing a few days to get acclimated in South America, our intended stay of two days in Chile quickly turned into six as we found ourselves enthralled with the country. We had little expectation that Chile would captivate us in such an intense way.
The culture, the people, the food, the wine, the scenery – all splendid. The wine culture we experienced in Chile was similar to the United States in many ways. The feel and sensations that come from visiting a winery; beautiful buildings, tasting lists, tasting fees, bladder and basket presses and other equipment lingering about, forklifts maneuvering, bottling lines, etc. Fortunately for us, this was the end of the harvest season in South America and the wonderful aromas that linger in a production facility were in abundance.
Due to limited time in the country, we were only able to visit two wine regions, Maipo Valley and the Casablanca Valley. The following lists the highlights from our visit.
MAIPO VALLEY
We started our journeys in the Maipo Valley, which sits at the base of the Andes Mountains, so close it feels as though one could reach out and touch them. Our first stop was Viña Aquitania. We made an appointment, as that is the norm here in Chile and were warmly greeted. Our tour guide kindly showed us to a bench in their gardens and waited patiently for us to eat our empanadas before we began our tour. This being our first introduction to Chilean wine culture we didn’t quite know what to expect. What we quickly discovered was a visit to a Chilean winery was not a quick experience. Several hours later, after a fantastic experience, we scurried over to Cousino Macul where being advised that we did not have time for a “tour” we told the guard at the gate that we were simply there to purchase wine. This too turned out to be a fantastic experience and we realized that our biggest problem was going to be our inability to bring home multiple cases of wine.
The most common varietals grown in the Maipo valley are Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay for the whites, and Carmenere, Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon for the reds. Sauvignon Blanc was our favorite white. With intense minerality and acidity they had long lingering citrus finishes, pairing beautifully with the ceviche so common and popular to this part of the world. The Cabs were delicious for the reds. With the Carmenere being a bit too fruity for our taste, the Cabs had a delightful balance of the Southern world style of intense fruit yet with enough structure to please our American palates.
CASABLANCA VALLEY
Amongst many other enjoyable parts of our travels, we next made it to the Casablanca Valley, which has an intense Napa/Sonoma vibe. High tasting fees and beautiful facilities flooded route 68. Our first stop was at Morande, where according to their website we thought we could get a quick bite to eat in addition to our tasting. Little did we know that the food would consist of a 5-course meal paired to perfection with each wine. In one of the most breathtaking settings ever, this winery and their phenomenal wines created an exceptional experience. Sauvignon Blanc accompanying ceviche, Syrah paired precisely with lamb, Chardonnay intensifying the flavors of Salmon ravioli, Cabernet Sauvignon lingered over a small filet, all of which was topped off with a late harvest Sauvignon Blanc made to perfection and paired with a ginger infused Crème brûlée. This experience was nothing short of spectacular!
Needing to take some time after indulging in such a fantastic food/wine experience we decided to walk to the Emiliana winery, which we were told was “right next door”. The walk, though quite enjoyable took about 30 minutes. Entering the property we traveled down a long dirt road surrounded on both sides by stunningly manicured vineyards. This winery practices exclusively organic and biodynamic practices, so in addition to the beauty of the vines we saw lavender and roses, llamas and geese, olive trees and an abundance of other plants and animals living in symbiotic relationship. Felipe welcomed us warmly at the door. After quick pleasantries we were quickly brought inside to yet again another phenomenal experience. Beautifully balanced wines, this winery has estate fruit scattered across five Chilean wine valleys including: Casablanca, Maipo, Cachapoal, Colchagua, and the Bio-Bio. Emiliana produces many stunning wines, however our two favorites were a Chardonnay, Viognier, Marsanne white blend and a Syrah, Mouvedre red blend. The white, as one might suspect by its components was complex and rich with nice palate weight, similar to Airfield’s Lightning. The red was rich, bold and heavy. We actually enjoyed the red so intensely we ordered a bottle of the Syrah, Mouvedre blend at our restaurant with dinner the next evening.
Our final highlight from the Casablanca valley was the Casas del Bosque. This winery was gorgeous. A gated entry led us down a dirt path. Stepping out of our car we were greeted by the first winery dog we had seen on the trip. After registering we were led to a beautiful private tasting room. Casas del Bosque is known for Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, both of which held up to their reputations. The Sauvignon Blanc was tremendously complex. Various citrus flavors exploded at various points along the palate. With intense acidity, this wine was a fantastic treat. The Pinot Noir was equally exceptional. Medium bodied, this wine demonstrated smokey flavors with hints of chocolate and vanilla.
The final consensus after our time in Chile was that we had barely tapped the surface of this superb wine region of the world. Departing left us solely with the option that someday soon we would both return. It was a perfect experience and we both crossed our fingers that none of our new treasures would break in our suitcases!
Tags: Chile, Travel, Wine Tasting
Posted in Uncategorized, Wine Tasting
May 11th, 2010
By Jeannie Rose Field
  
Peru and Chile have a contentious relationship. A friend who spent some time in Peru warned me before I went that being from Chile…or having lived in Chile…or having visited Chile…could get me ostracized in Peru. What could inspire this kind of animosity, you ask? Well, several things. But one of the things that really gets Peruvians riled up is Chile’s habit of “borrowing” some of Peru’s tastiest dishes and trying to pass them off as their own.
The Pisco Sour, for example, is practically the national drink of Chile, even with all its wine (most of which is exported). The drink is made from Pisco, a liquor made from the muscat grape and lime juice. In Chile, we saw them everywhere, even at wineries! Chile has tried to lay claim to the drink on the international scene…but the liquor, and the cocktail itself, are both of Peruvian origin.
Then there’s ceviche. Ceviche is essentially the technique of marinading raw or barely cooked seafood in lime juice, adding goodies like garlic, red onion, hot pepper, and cilantro. There are endless variations but they’re pretty much all an amazing explosion of color and flavor. And while it may be true that no one “owns” the technique itself, asking a Chilean and a Peruvian about the origins and ultimate technique for preparing the dish is bound to ignite a conflict.
After a week in Chile, eating ceviche numerous times in both the Peruvian and Chilean styles, we can’t say which is better—we’ll have to take another field research trip before we decide. But we can say we understand a little better why the two nations would have some conflict over claims to food: if we invented such a tasty dish and someone else tried to take the credit, we’d be mad too.
See for yourself with this version, based on an “authentic” Peruvian version… but if you take credit, like Chile does, Peru never has to know.
CEVICHE RECIPE:
STEP 1
Marinade seafood of choice (try white fish fillet, like tilapia; shrimp; octopus) in about 1 and a half cups lime juice. Key limes best approximate the flavor of the version used in South America, but you can use lemon in a pinch. Cover and refrigerate for at least two hours.
STEP 2
Drain the juice and add:
• A seeded & chopped aji pepper (yellow); if you can’t find aji, try habanero or rocoto (spicy peppers!)
• 2 large red onions sliced into thin, long strips
• 2 chopped cloves of garlic
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
• Salt and pepper to taste
• About 1 more cup lime juice
STEP 3
Serve over a bed of lettuce with sides like yams, potatoes, or corn. For a wine pairing, try Airfield Estates Thunderbolt (a dry, crisp, refreshing blend of Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon).
~ For more delicious ideas from Jeannie, visit www.thefauxgourmet.com ~
Tags: ceviche, Recipe, Sauvignon Blanc, Thunderbolt
Posted in Chef's Corner
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