Due to popular demand, Airfield Estates Winery decided to host its 2nd Mardi Gras Winemaker’s Dinner. It was an evening of delicious foods and phenomenal wines.
On the MENU was.. • Deep-Fried Okra & BBQ Alligator paired with the ’08 Thunderbolt • Louisiana Sunburst Salad paired with the ’08 Unoaked Chardonnay • Shrimp Jambalaya paired with the ’08 Dolcetto • Dungeness Crab Pot paired with the ’08 Spitfire • King Cakes paired with the ’08 Late Harvest Riesling
Hurray! It’s in the bottle! And it is tasting better than ever! Below is some video footage of Airfield’s winemaker discussing the bottling of the 2009 Unoaked Chardonnay:
If you have ever been in our tasting room in Prosser, it is hard to miss our barrels. They are on display, front and center, behind large picture windows. This is a fitting tribute to such an important component in our wine. While winemaking is often considered an art, choosing the right barrel is an art all by itself. In this newsletter, I want to briefly talk about the role of oak in the wines made at Airfield and highlight some of my favorite cooperages and what they contribute to the wines we are making.
For my wines, the goal is to always highlight the fruit. We want to showcase the plum & herbs in our Merlots, the cherry & black current in our Cabernets, and the anise & earth in our Syrahs. The barrel is to my wines as a frame is to a painting. With paintings, the choice of frame can accentuate the beauty of the art or if poorly selected can compete with it. So it is with wine, choosing that perfect barrel can accentuate the beauty and flavor of the wine or it can compete with it. Most of you have probably heard a wine described as “it tastes like I am licking a barrel.” Choosing the wrong type of barrel or using too much new oak can detract from the fruit and steal its beauty and natural essence.
In Airfield wines, we like to see barrels contribute some very subtle background flavors. A hint of cocoa on a Cabernet can be quite compelling as it dances with the fruit flavors on your nose. While the aromatic contribution of barrels can be nice, what really dazzles me is what it can do to mouth feel. Some barrels can add great weight on the mid-palate. Others, add nice line and direction. The framework that barrels provide to wine as it sits on the tongue can be quite incredible. However, to work properly, the foundation of good fruit, with layers of intensity has to be there as the basis upon which oak builds.
One of the main reasons that barrels can affect the mouthfeel and body of a wine comes from the fact that barrels breath. Barrels, while being water tight, actually breath and bring in small amounts of oxygen into the wine. This process is called micro-oxygenation. Some of you that are knowledgeable about wine are probably wondering: Why do you want to use a barrel if it adds oxygen to wine, isn’t oxygen bad for wine? The answer is both yes and no. From the perspective of a consumer, you have seen how an open wine bottle in a matter of days can go from outstanding to unpalatable as the oxygen slowly oxidizes the aromatics and flavor of the wine. From a winemaker’s perspective, oxygen is paramount in preparing a red wine for bottle. A young red wine is like a new rose. It starts out closed, all of its flavors and textures are tightly wrapped in a bundle. The ingredient that makes the wine unravel is oxygen. Small amounts of oxygen slowly enter the wine through the barrel and the wine begins to develop. As more oxygen enters the wine, the wine’s development continues, both in texture and in flavors. Tannins become softer and more velvety. The wine’s acidity begins to lose its edge and come into balance. Depending on the intensity of the fruit, this development can take anywhere from 10 months to 24 months. Once the wine has opened up and come into balance, we are able to capture that moment by putting the wine in a bottle and sealing it with a screw cap in an environment free from oxygen.
When selecting oak and pairing it with the right wine, it is important to have experience. The salesmen from the cooperage will tell you what they think the barrel will contribute to the wine. Rarely does it actually work as advertised. Every vineyard is distinct and trying to use certain barrels to emulate styles from other wineries will not work. Having purchased barrels for Airfield Estates for 5 years, I am beginning to see great success with our barrel selection.
I have listed some of my favorite barrels, these barrels have become the foundation of my barrel program. While each year I experiment with new barrels, the following have proven they work well with my fruit. One thing that these barrels have in common is that they all are what I consider “finesse” barrels. They are not flashy; they all tend to have flavors that sit in the background of the wine. Nonetheless, they generally have a big effect on the mouth feel of the wine.
FRENCH BARRELS (Make up 45% of 2009 barrel purchases)
St. Martin – I have been using this barrel for 2 years and have been very impressed with the weight and structure these barrels add to my Cabernet Sauvignon. While adding weight, they also provide roundness and elegance to the wine.
Boutes – The Boutes barrel is my mid-palate bomb. When I am looking for a lot of roundness in a wine, this barrel is the right choice. Used heavily with Merlot.
Vicard – Vicard is a great Cabernet barrel. Although it does not add the fatness of the Boutes barrel, it adds exceptional length. Aromatics of cocoa make for an enticing nose. This cooperage’s American counterpart has been a great choice for Zinfandel.
Billon – This barrel showed me last year that it has the potential to make the Merlot of my dreams. After spending time in the Billon, the Merlot came out soft with a seamless mouthfeel. I’m very excited about the future of this barrel.
EUROPEAN OAK – NON FRENCH (20%)
Trust – Hungarian Oak – If you can recall our 2006 Reserve Syrah, you will remember its smoky character that mingled with its earthy fruit quality. (91pts Wine Spectator) The primary barrel in that blend was Trust Hungarian. When combined with our Syrah, it creates an exhilarating smoky flavor. While used for many varietals, Trust does exceptionally well with Syrah. Watch for our 2009 Reserve Syrah sometime next year — it will be fantastic.
Seguin Moreaux – Russian Oak – These are the first Russian oak barrels we have ever purchased, and I am definitely impressed. These barrels rival the Billon for my favorite choice for Merlot. While adding great body, they add a nice spicy component that our staff is in love with. Hungarian oak comes in at $650, Russian is $850, and French is $1000. The price of Russian oak being nearly that of French is the only thing preventing me from buying a ton of these excellent barrels.
AMERICAN BARRELS (Make up 35% of 2009 barrel purchases)
You have probably heard people praising French barrels and loathing American oak. As a French oak lover, I understand the love of French oak. While not all American Oak measures up, I feel I have found three barrels that do. These three barrels are no slouches and will often beat the French in blind taste tests. These high end American barrels are still way cheaper then the French costing just $400 a piece.
Seguin Moreaux – U-Stave American – These unique barrels have gotten their name from the fact that the wood inside the barrel is cut in a U-shape instead of being cut flat. This extra surface area and perfect toasting provides a barrel that can provide tremendous concentration without taking over aromatically. It works wonders with our Cabernet Sauvignon.
Saury Reserve American - These represent my work horse barrels. I buy lots of these barrels and they work well with almost everything. Sometimes I mistake them for French oak.
Nadalie Virginia American - Probably the most delicate American oak barrel that I have ever used. It works well with white wines in particular. It is also one of my favorite barrels with Syrah.
If you have read this far, you may be asking yourself. Ok, I have heard him mention Syrah, Merlot, & Cabernet a lot regarding his barrel choices, but not any of the other red varietals that Airfield grows. The reason for this is I have found that Merlot, Syrah, & Cabernet are my best varietals for handling new oak. Most of the other varietals lose fruit if too much oak is applied. So with the other varietals, they often see no more then 20% new oak. When they are blended, they add great fruit accents to the wine.
Well, that is the barrel regime at Airfield in a nutshell. As I mentioned earlier, we are always trying new barrels. While we have found barrels that work well with our fruit, I am sure there are other barrels out there that would be great additions to the wines we make. We will keep you posted as we continue to find these gems.
Written by Marcus Miller
Airfield Estates Winemaker
Many of our wine club members have asked questions related to cover crops, so I would like to elaborate on the issue based on my personal experience…
A cover crop is a crop grown to cover the soil – serving as a protective layer. Sometimes, it is tilled into the soil as a “green manure.” Other times, it is a living or dead mulch located on the surface of the soil. Basically, a cover crop can be any type of plant. The most common types are grasses, legumes, or grass/legume mixtures.
Cover crops play an essential role for vineyards, especially here in Eastern Washington. Without them, the topsoil would blow away & the weeds would take over. Depending on the type of cover crop used, they can also be beneficial by decreasing water runoff, enhancing infiltration, conserving soil moisture, supplying nitrogen, increasing nutrients & organic matter, improving the structure & overall quality of the soil, suppressing soil born diseases, attracting beneficial insects, & encouraging a diverse ecosystem.
Finding the right cover crop to grow can be quite challenging in the Yakima Valley because of the dry, arid climate & sandy soil conditions. Over the years, we‘ve learned a lot about specific cover crops & their interactions with vineyard sites.
In the past, we’ve tried many permutations. We’ve used Sudan grass, Vetch, & Austrian winter peas. All of these crops are annuals, meaning they grow from seed & do not grow over winter. They all increase the tilth of the soil through the introduction of organic material at the end of the season. (Good tilth refers to soil that has the proper structure & nutrients to grow healthy crops.)
The downfall with these cover crops is that they also increase the total available level of nitrogen in the soil, and wine grapes tend to be low users of nitrogen. Increasing the amount of nitrogen above certain levels can actually cause the vine to produce excess vegetative growth, which in turn, can adversely affect wine quality.
After discovering this issue, we decided to use a cover crop that incorporates perennial grasses. The product that we had the most success with was a blend of several perennial grasses named Companion. Because it was a blended product, it could adapt to a multitude of vineyard conditions, resulting in a highly adaptable cover crop that performed well in a multitude of vineyard environments.
Nevertheless, we found one major obstacle with Companion – rodent control. Eventually the floor of the vineyard became so undulating due to the incessant borrowing of the rodent and coyote populations, that it was difficult to transport equipment, such as mechanical harvesters or sprayers, at the optimal speed.
In 1997, we installed our first drip irrigation system. With this method of irrigation, a drip line was suspended beneath the cordon wire, and it delivered water to each vine via individual emitters. Before conversion to drip, we were using furrow irrigation, which delivered water with ditches. We also used sprinklers, which delivered water over the top of the vine, wetting the entire surface of the vineyard. With the conversion to drip, we lost the ability to irrigate the area between the rows, where we plant cover crops. With the change, we needed to rethink our strategies.
Our new strategy is to use rye, which is an annual grass similar to wheat. Rye grass can often be grown under conditions where other cover crops fail because it establishes quickly and grows throughout the winter. Rye is an excellent choice for soil protection and weed suppression.
At Airfield Estates, we plant the cover immediately after harvest. We utilize winter precipitation to germinate and nourish the cover crop. Once we have established a healthy stand between the rows and before the plants become overly dry, we kill the cover crop. The mulch left by the dead cover crop can be used to help prevent weed germination in that area for the rest of the grape growing season. Control is not always stellar, so from time to time it may be necessary to run a mower through the middles to keep weeds at bay.
This dialog basically exhausts Airfield’s experience with cover crops. In other regions, with other climatic and topographical influences at play, the discussion could be much different. In general, the cover crop must match the site and vine vigor. Growers need to be aware of cover crop and vine interactions, and they must realize how these interactions may change as the vine matures.
Written By Mike Miller
Airfield Estates Grape Grower
There are many interesting articles on the significance of specific stemware used to optimize & enhance the enjoyment of a particular wine. The options for the consumer appear endless, from bowl size, to glass color, to height of stem, the list goes on & on.
With all of this oversaturation of choice, the question arises as to just how much does the glass matter? Does an $80 glass necessarily make a wine taste better than a well-designed $8 glass? Additionally, is the $80 glass of great value if it sits polished in a cupboard for fear of being broken?
With the daunting task that can be associated with finding the perfect glass, here are some simple guidelines that seem reasonable to the everyday wine consumer…
COLOR – For starters, the glass should be clear. The visual aspect of wine plays a significant role in the tasting experience.
SHAPE – It’s been said that the shape of a wine glass influences the bouquet & taste of wine. At Airfield, we decided to test this theory by blind tasting a wine in a variety of different wine glass shapes. Depending on the glass, the wine displayed different characteristics. The differences were so great that some of us believed that we had been tasting different wines.
Typically, a narrower wine glass is used for whites as the shape concentrates the more delicate aromas. Larger, broader bowls are used for bold red wines with bigger bouquets. Finally, sparkling wines are best served in tall slender tulip glasses, as the visual enjoyment of the bubbles are enhanced by the narrow height of the glass.
SIZE – Another key point to consider when selecting the glass is choosing one of sufficient size. The bowl should be large enough to allow the desired amount of wine to be poured, while filling only 1/3 – 1/2 the bowl with wine. This ensures that the wine will be able to be swirled & the glass tilted to capture the aroma & inspect the color w/out wine being spilled.
With these simple guidelines in mind, it is important to remember that as much as many of the likes and dislikes associated with wine are a matter of personal taste and preference, the same ultimately applies to the glass in which it is served. The way the glass feels in hand and against the lips is a crucial part of the enjoyment factor.
A final thought on stemware – with all of the great choices available in today’s market, don’t buy a glass that can’t afford to be broken. As much as a corked bottle can prove to be a great disappointment so can an expensive broken glass.
February is, we’re told, time for love.Time for romantic, expensive dinners, for doting gifts, for all the pressure that comes with trying to show someone how much you adore them by how much you can plan or spend.What if, instead of the fancy, fussy, forced Valentines Day displays of adoration, we stepped back and had a relaxing, low-key evening actually celebrating and enjoying the people we love?Not because there’s a recession, and we begrudgingly forego the jewelry and champagne toasts, but because there’s something really lovely and deeply satisfying about staying in, cuddling up, feasting on hearty, homey food with a rich glass of wine?
Sounds pretty good to me.If you want your fancy V-day reservations out on the town, you’re certainly welcome to them.But when it comes time to wind down and focus more on the people in your lives than the fanfare, this simple meal hits the spot.
When I first tried the Airfield Zinfandel, all I could think was “smoked eggplant.”The wine has multiple layers, a deeper note that longs to be paired with the earthiness of eggplant or a wintry green like kale, but also a brighter acidity begging to accompany tomatoes.But the smokiness?Where was I going to find the right flavor to complement that?
Mozzarella, turns out.Smoked mozzarella has a beautiful aroma, of hearth and home, just like the meal.It is a bit browned on the outside and has the creaminess of fresh mozzarella but a nuttiness I associate with, say, browned butter or roasted brussel sprouts.Leftovers are joyous on toast in the morning.
The rest of the recipe is a feast of colors and textures, giving the lie to the notion that winter food is bland and bitter.Start with a cheery yellow corn cake, beautiful by the stack.Cover with sauteed fresh kale, dotted with bacon.Finish with a spicy tomato sauce bedecked in smoked mozzarella.Settle in by the fire (or the space heater) with a bottle of Airfield Zin and a loved one or dear friend for an evening of endearing conversation and affection—proving the best things in life are, after all, (just about) free.
CORN CAKES WITH SAUTEED KALE & SPICY TOMATO SAUCE
Corn Cakes:
1 cup flour
¾ cup coarse cornmeal
¼ cup sugar
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
¾ cup plain yogurt + ¼ cup water, mixed
3 Tbs melted butter
3 ½ Tsp baking powder
½ Tsp baking soda
½ Tsp salt
2 eggs
Separate eggs, adding yolks to watered down yogurt, sugar and butter.Whip whites until they form soft peaks.Mix dry ingredients, stirring in the wet and folding in egg whites.Depending on the consistency of the yogurt, you may need to add a bit more liquid to get a good consistency for pancakes, though the finished batter should be fairly thick.I used a very thick yogurt then added 1 Tbsp each cream and water to thin it down.
Make corn cakes as you would any other pancakes, although corn cakes should be a bit thicker.A diameter of roughly 4 inches makes for a good single serving.
Makes approximately 6 cakes.Leftover cakes are wonderful with maple syrup or berries for breakfast; batter keeps 4-6 days.
Sauteed Kale
6 cloves garlic, minced
Enough olive oil to fill bottom of pan in thin layer, approximately 6 Tbsp
1 large bunch kale, washed
4 Tbsp diced bacon (hint: cutting frozen bacon width-wise creates conveniently sized pieces and avoids having to separate pieces of bacon)
4 Tbsp pine nuts, toasted
1 red onion, diced
Fold each piece of kale in half, cutting fibrous center stem out with kitchen scissors.Chop leaves into bite-sized pieces.
Saute garlic in olive oil, taking care not to burn.Reserve approximately ½ the oil & ½ the garlic.Add red onion and cook over medium-low heat until onion is softened and gooey, 5-10 minutes.While onion is cooking, toast pine nuts (hint: set timer for 1 minute, shake, set timer for another minute; when nuts turn color, immediately pour into separate bowl or they’ll keep cooking in the pan, even with the heat off).
Add bacon to pan with onions, allowing to just crisp before adding kale, stirring slightly.Cover for 2-3 minutes to allow kale to absorb liquid and soften, then stir gently.Give it a bit more time if they’re still rough or crisp.Leaves should be bright green and just tender, but not mushy.Sprinkle pine nuts on kale.
Tomato Sauce
You may use your favorite pre-made tomato sauce if you want an easy substitute.Alternately, you can search for the ingredients that made my sauce truly special—or come up with a variety of your own based on what’s local and tasty in your area.I started with a big can of diced tomatoes, roughly 2 cups worth.Canned tomatoes are usually made from tomatoes picked at the height of freshness and it isn’t hard to get cans whose only ingredient is—tomatoes.Considering they’re cheap and keep forever, canned tomatoes are about the perfect food.
To this I added about 1/3 cup of a Middle Eastern pepper sauce, available by the jar—spicy with a hint of vinegar, the paste is packed with red peppers, tomatoes, eggplant and chilies.I also added 1/3 cup fried eggplant, also available by the jar.I further added the remaining garlic and oil, leftover from the kale, salt, pepper, and about 2 teaspoons of an Italian seasoning blend (marjoram, thyme, oregano, basil).
Use tongs to top corn cakes with tong-ful of kale.Cover with a ladle full of tomato and dot with pieces of smoked mozzarella.Microwave briefly to assist with the melting (or put briefly under a broiler).
